正文 坝区行（5）
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坝区行5
五、又登坛子岭
其实和当年相比，坝区还是有很大的变化的，现在的大坝景区绿化做得很好，桃花早就开过了，枝叶间看得见那些还没有成熟的白桃；而原来的这里除了光秃秃的花岗岩就是灰色的水泥和的钢筋；原来上坛子岭，得从山下盘旋着一直往上爬，然后沿着长长的石阶步步向上，有很多的台阶，爬到那个平台上呼吸不拉风箱才算怪；现在简单多了，乘车上到一半的位置，开始换乘分为五组的露天电动扶梯，就可以轻而易举的登上那个平台。
其实作为三峡大坝标志性景点的坛子岭这么多年几乎没有任何变化，那个最高处的大坝建设勘测点依然是海拔26248米，当然是观赏三峡工程全貌的最佳位置，不仅仅能欣赏到三峡大坝的雄浑壮伟，还能居高临下的观看壁立千仞的34长江第四峡 34双向五级船闸。下面平台上还是当年那栋貌不惊人的模型展示厅，还是那一堆不知是真是假的万年江底石，还是竖立着那几根三峡坝址基石、那个的大江截流混凝块还是那么令人震撼，那块银版天书还是在阳光下闪闪发光，坛子岭上还是游客不断、络绎不绝。
可是细微的变化还是可以察觉到的。比如那个原本是展览介绍三峡工程模型的大厅如今几乎被商品的展台所占据，也就变得门庭冷落了；同样是石头，同样被水流或喷泉所，可那些江底石却被冲刷成淡黄色，而那块截流石却变成了黑色；坛子岭上，少了些感情澎湃、热情洋溢的游客，更多的是拍完照就闪人的游客；而在那块天书前，更多的也是拍照留念的，我观察了一下，几乎没有人耐心去读一遍书上的相关介绍的，这也包括我，不过我多年前已经读过。
三峡大坝到底是第一批五a景区，在全国乃至海外到底是比那个靠着西陵峡的美景而得名的三峡人家，以及那个有些不符其实的清江画廊不知要强n多倍；这里到底是从开工到建成来过全部时任的党政军领导人的地方，所以就和那34截断巫山34的大坝一样有一种与生俱来的霸气；虽然这里是以银色大坝、浩瀚库区而得名的工程景区，可是无论是道路、建筑、还是沿途的一些细节，就都有一种国际范，就像范冰冰穿上中国红就是一片叫好声，而另一个艺人穿东北花棉袄去蹭红地毯就被说成是34掉份34。
很久以前来的时候，有一个武的工程师被他的上司叫来，指着窗外的夜幕下只剩下山的剪影给我们讲五级船闸的时候解释说：34就是把葛洲坝的船闸一个个的接起来，把船提升到坝上。34可那个时候，我们都快喝得不行了，只想找机会喘口气；上一次来的时候，五级船闸还在安装阶段，不过，翻坝运输已经提到议事日程上来了，于是宜昌又变成了34过载码头34，就有了翻坝公路；这一次来，舆论上说五级船闸早就超负荷运转，可是站在那个船闸观景台望下去，每一级闸室里都空荡荡的，没几艘船，不知是不是高速公路的发达抢了黄金水道的生意，还是因为经济萧条而少了许多物流。
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